Post 15: 19/2/10 Day 6 Dalkhola to Siliguri. - 135 kms

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Day 6 was an early morning start at 7:00am. We were able to ride through the town of Dalkhola with barely a soul in sight; silently and lost in thought - the accident of last evening still looming fresh in our minds.

The distance covered today, some 135 km - the lengthiest of the week. All 19 riders started and finished safely. The scenery over the past days changed as rich wet paddy fields gave way to lush tea gardens. I had been particularly looking forward to the latter as my Father was the Manager of Panighatta and Pahargoomia Tea Estates, situated not too far from our bike route.

 The road for most of the way was dual carriage way. Yep, you read correct! We were able to ride at our fastest pace and achieved our targeted 90 km by lunch time; the ride thereafter was pretty rough and bumpy - on a single carriage way. My vote for the worst road of the week would be the Hill cart road from Bagdogra to Siliguri. Absolute disgrace!
                                                   
We arrived 17:30 at our (2 month old) luxurious  hotel Royal Sarovar, to be warmly greeted by Phillip Gibson, CEO at Dr. Graham's Homes and David Foning - the Bursar. The former, a very unexpected and pleasant surprise!
I'm tired but full of admiration for all the riders on their mammoth achievement. Two special mentions here - one to my son Jonathan - he does me proud, at only 22 - making him the youngest rider in the Group. He inspired me when I hit the 'wall' and cheered me on when there were challenges. And he has got on splendidly with the rest. The other mention goes out to Archie who at 82, is the oldest participant! I'm equally sure that Archie's family and close ones will shower him with due praise and admiration for what he has achieved. All helmets off to him! Hip, Hip, Hooray!

The two Tea Estates I mentioned earlier on - Panighatta and Pahargoomia - well, I just learned that Jackie's Father also managed the two estates and that she may have climbed the very same guava tree I did all those years ago! What a co-incidence! And if that wasn't co-incidence enough for a day - Clive also managed the Pahargoomia TE!!! Small world indeed!

It's near midnight and the long day is beginning to take its toll - sleep is not too far away now. The hotel bed (a far cry from our sleeping bags and tents) is so comfortable that I'm slightly nervous I may not rise for the wake up call at 4:45am. Yep - local political issues means we have another Bandh (strike) tomorrow - so we must start off at 6:00am.

Still it's our final stage!!!

Sight of the Day: The Mahananda river where as a child I used to picnic and fish; today it is a dry river bed.

Post 14: 18/2/10 Day 5 Gajol to Dalkhola -116 kms

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This is a brief update.....to inform family and friends:

After a long hard ride we've all arrived safely at Dalkhola.

There was an accident between a lorry and a bus about 1 km from the camp today and some 20 people were tragically killed. We remember the families of the dead and ask Why????

Understandably this incident saddens us and has put a shadow on the day....




Post 13: 17/2/10 Day 4 - Aurangabad to Gajol - 84 kms

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Rise and shine - Hammond (Sr.)...feels rested and ready to take the world on!

So this is how it feels after a good nights sleep – my first in 6 nights! Hurrah!! After much self-persuasion and rather begrudgingly dare I add – those Kingfisher beers I downed certainly worked...thought I slept like a baby until I got a complaint that someone in Tent 10 kept him awake all night with his snores... me snoring!! Nah! Not a chance! Okay – maybe a little – blame it on the beer ... it has been scientifically proven you know... but that’s another story for another time...

Because … today we would cross the Ganges riding over the Farraka Barrage. This dam on the Ganges River was completed in 1974-75, roughly at a distance of 10 km from the border of Bangladesh. It is the longest barrage in the world and has an entry in the Guinness Book of World Records. I felt a tinge of excitement remembering how huge and majestic the river was the last time round.

We would also ride through Malda one of the busiest railway towns – but my excitement gave way to concern; in 2008 we were just 10 riders and crossing town was hell raising enough; today with 19 riders it would be even more exhilarating! Any bets on losing one of the new riders? No – not into the Ganges!! I have to keep Jonathan in sight and curb his enthusiasm...

The distance was not a problem but it was predicted to be a hot and humid day.


We set off at 8:00am with everyone cycling after a solid breakfast of porridge and bananas (mine); but fairly soon ran into heavy traffic. I knew this was a popular route for lorries with goods to offload at the Malda rail station but had not reckoned for the much improved road surface attracting even more road traffic. So, less potholes but more lorries - some compensation!



Two hours into the ride and we were riding across the spectacular 3 km Farraka Barrage. Military presence is heavy here and although photography is strictly prohibited - it did little to stop us intrepid riders from clicking away. Caroline and Tina managed to charm their way to the riverside...but on their way back (Alas! the charm didn’t last) were stopped by yet, another, rude security officer who threatened to jail them for taking pictures! We didn’t wait for a second warning and we shot  off as fast as our pedals allowed , thinking of the dire consequence. No need to describe local police cells or jails in India here!


The traffic was heavy as I had suspected - trucks so over laden with goods that many were broken down with suspension problems. Riding through Malda was relatively easy - I remembered going home day at the Homes and kids leaving for Calcutta mentioning Malda station!


Sight of the Day: Dave Willis like a good citizen - that he is (bless his cotton, woollies? soles!) - duly waiting for the traffic lights to change to green – when all around him were oblivious to the red stop light and moving!!!! (He could have had a bloody long wait!)

Post 12: 16/2/10 Day 3 - Beharampur to Aurangabad - 80 kms

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It was all about the sights and sounds of the Gangetic plains on Day 3 of our trip …… leaving Behrampore behind we headed towards Suti - located close to Aurangabad. Suti’s only claim to fame would be a Beedi(or Bidi)factory. Bidi’s are also known as the “poor man’s cigarette”(very low cost)are small,thin hand-rolled cigarettes. These consist of tobacco wrapped in tendu or temburni leaves (plants native to Asia). Definitely not recommended for Dunhill smokers!

Taking a short cut out of Behrampore – led us from the relative calm of our overnight camp – slam bang into zillions of bustling, hustling, jostling people, buses, cars, bullock carts and everything else in between - that could move – everyone trying to get a share of the road taking them to…??? This sudden change in tempo - scenery - almost put the fear of Hades into the riders – because it hit us so sudden and without warning. I must have a chat with Prakash (support team leader) about this - if he recommends taking such shortcuts – we need to do it gradually so as not to spook the riders off their seats again!

After that initial shock - the ride was all about taking it easy, cycling together and enjoying the scenery. Given the higher than usual number of incidents, Prakash and I agreed that the driver’s safety net to the riders would be more effective if the two cars were within sight and 100 metres of each other.


And this seemed to be working until “attention” seeking Vanda finally fell off her perch and scraped her leg - first fall ever for her! Clive not to be outdone - joined her in a similar fashion forgetting that the edges of Indian highways are not to be taken lightly; here the edges are some 5 inches below the tarmac level because layers are just added rather than having the tarmac replaced.

Otherwise an incident free day .............!

The ride took us through the Gangetic plains with plenty of tributaries and canals irrigating the fertile land; crops of all kinds seem to be grown here - the lakes rich in fish, attract the prettiest of kingfishers and cranes.



Also, adding to the quiet was Richard’s absence – he was unable to ride today due to a 'dodgy' illness; so no rendering of the Bohemian Rhapsody with Christine.....utter bliss! I think I preferred the shrieking horns of the state buses rather than him belting his favourite ….. !?


But all said I do hope he is back on the bike tomorrow as he is great fun and Jon finds him a welcome change from the other old Farts (we still await his hat trick of punctures)..and Andy, our yellow jersey winner from 2008 had a wee tummy problem; he indicated his recovery late evening with the statement "I’m now able to FART with confidence!!

Tomorrow we cross the Ganges and Malda....the latter - not particularly looking forward to.


Sight of the Day: Two bullocks pulling a cart.....specially conjured up for Janice – because she kept lamenting about missing them! Imagine coming all the way to India and missing seeing a single cart pulled by bullocks!

Post 11: 15/2/10 Day 2 - Krishnanagar to Beharampur - 86 kms

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I'm snug in my sleeping bag as I write this. It has been cooler and the much shorter cycling distance covered today has given us more time to relax...a few of us even managed to visit the Raman (circus) big top set up next door. It wasn't for very long though since the clowns failed to make us laugh and the juggler kept losing his bottle...and there was this "performer" who could drink a bucket of water and then spout it out!! We left early thinking missing a dinner of momos (Tibetan dumplings) and rosogollas (Bengali sweets made from cottage cheese) would be downright unforgivable!

Everyone arrived at Behrampore safe and sound.

The day began well for us as we left camp at 8:00am. To my utter disappointment, the duck pond was nothing but a dry bed, dashing the much anticipated sight of 14“freshers” giving the locals and us a sight for sore eyes and maybe even the ducks a waddle for their money - instead we posed for pictures at the spot marking the Tropic of Cancer.

The road and the scenery were a huge improvement from the potholes and smog of yesterday's ride - interrupted only by the first incident of the day ...yep! Jonathan had a slow puncture!!!

We rode past Plassey where the famous historical battle between the English and the Indians was fought.

The rest of the trip was almost uneventful until approx. 12 km from the camp site, when one of the cyclists had a nasty fright. No damage done but this only heightened an even stronger signal for safety awareness amongst the riders.

I was one of the early arrivals and as Germans tend to do, flung my helmet into a tent - booking it for the night...I also found myself another neighbour but alas, he too has started snoring and it looks like I'll have to settle for yet another sleepless night! Damn!!

A thought crosses my mind as I await sleep - only non-snorers must be allowed to participate should there be another Bike event.

Goodnight!


Sight of the Day: the rich flooded green terraced paddy fields.

Post 10: 14/2/10 Day 1 Kolkata to Krishnanagar - 101 kms

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19 cyclists set out from the Baptist Mission at 7:00am today and arrived safely at Krishnanagar before sunset and some 125 km later.

The send off from Kolkata was great with many OGB's in attendance - throwing in their support. Anu and Alfred, many thanks for looking after us - your patience and tolerance to our little whims was very much appreciated; even when at 3:00am - Alfred in pyjamas (well....) broke the stores lock so that Ray could access his bag to get his bike ready for a 7:00am start!!

With 14 cyclists riding for the first time in India, the law of averages would point to some incident occurring on Day 1! And, sure enough - we were not let down – barely three hours into the ride - James found himself upended.... and nae an Ambassador taxi in sight! Dusting himself off the ground, he continued cycling nonchalantly but little did he know by falling off his bike – he now inherited the title “Calamity” James - from Ken who in 2008 had a similar earth scraping incident.



The next event of note was Jonathan's puncture..."I couldn't avoid that pothole" he explained, as Dad tut-tutted "I warned you so".. Then, there was Clive and Sandy, fighting to gain supremacy over the Ambassadors and a Del Boy's TIT van – while none the worse for wear - it finally dawned on them that driving on Indian roads is very different to British driving norms...no comparison worth mentioning as a matter of fact – all British road/driving rules simply don’t apply here!


The ride itself proved heavy going with temperatures above normal and traffic levels at its worst..... why weren't the Indians watching the 2nd Test match? As expected, the crowds were intrigued as to why a bunch of foreigners were riding for 7 days to Kalimpong - closely followed by: "What is the price of your bicycle please?!" Well,except for Sandy, who decided to buy a new bike in Kolkata rather than bring one from the UK. His agent delivered the Hero on time and I confess it looked pretty neat....until 20 km into Day 1 and the brakes failed him - immediately prompting us to dub it Zero...like from Hero?! Duh...

Tonight, typing this on my iphone - I feel countless aches and pains in places totally alien to me – my body is stiff and sore; while in the next tent Dave lies in deep slumber.... Lucky chap but methinks he doth snore too much and too loud!

Wake up call is 6:00am tomorrow and we will be on the road by 7:30am. A much shorter ride awaits us on this leg - we will be crossing the Tropic of Cancer and in accordance with the Webster's rider’s code, I gleefully expect the 14 'freshers' to commemorate their first outing by flopping and waddling into the nearby duck pond..... well I can dream, can't I?


Sight of the day: an Indian cyclist pedaling with one leg whilst the other is wrapped around his neck! Cool – what a mean feat? Please do try it in the comfort of your own backyard!

START OF BIKE BENGAL 2010 posts